Jokesters Stage Makeup
Highlights and shadows should be about three shades lighter or darker than the base, although intense light or dark paints may be required to create strong highlights or shadows. Apply them over the foundation with brushes or crayons. For small areas, like wrinkles, 1/8 to 1/4 inch flat synthetic sable brushes are useful. Larger areas require a 1/2 to 5/8 inch brush. Pointed brushes are used only for the smallest details. Crayons should be sharpened into a tent shape. The sharp edge is particularly efficient for making hard-edged highlights, such as creases. For an even finer point and to keep the line from smudging, refrigerate the crayons before sharpening.
Stippling is a method for applying makeup by gently pressing the color onto the skin with various textured sponges that are rough and large-pored. The pattern created by the pores adds texture without concealing what is underneath. It is used for toning down highlights and shadows that are too strong, for giving texture to the skin, for adding “blemishes” or “freckles,” and for concealing the edges of add-ons (false noses, bald caps, eyebrow covers) by breaking up the tiny line of shadow created by the edge of the false piece. It is also very a very effective way to create stubble for that “5 ‘clock shadow” look.
To achieve the illusion of age, shadow Plane 1 and highlight 3, blending through Plane 2. Put a strong highlight on 3A, and shadow on the lower edge of 3B to give the appearance of sagging. All of Plane 3 may be shadowed and the eyelid (4) highlighted for “sunken” eyes. Wrinkles that fan out over 3B may be modeled like the forehead wrinkles, but with a finer brush. Normally, we put eyeshadow near the eyelashes on Plane 4, but don’t do that for an aged appearance. A little red around the edge of the eye gives the impression of tiredness or crying.
How is this a theatrical makeup trick? We use the “younger” tricks to make people look as young as the character they are playing, up to 10 years younger; we use the “do not” list above to make someone look 10 or 20 years older than they actually are, or in the case of red-based like they were up all night, or crying. Lining the inner bottom lash line in light blue, using a little green and yellow shadow around the outer edge of the eye, and smudging a little red based violet in the lash line does wonders to make a character look like a battered wife.